feat: US aid grades

Add a US scale for aid grades.

It treats A# and C# as being part of the same scale, so that different
grade contexts do not need to be assigned to neighbouring routes, e.g.
if there is a grade with grade A2 next to a route with grade C1.

Aid + mandatory free is not covered by this commit.

Resolves: #79

README.md

@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@
 
 Javascript utilities for working with rock climbing grades.
 
-### Supported systems 
+### Supported systems
 
 **Sport & Traditional climbing**
 - [x] Yosemite Decimal System
@@ -19,6 +19,10 @@ Javascript utilities for working with rock climbing grades.
 - [x] Vermin (V-scale)
 - [x] Fontainebleau
 
+**Aid**
+- [x] A# & C#
+- [ ] Aid  with mandatory free climbing (5.8 A0, etc)
+
 **Ice**
 - [x] Winter Ice (WI#)
 - [x] Alpine Ice (AI#)

src/GradeScale.ts

@@ -15,6 +15,7 @@ export default interface GradeScale {
 
 export const GradeScales = {
   AI: 'ai',
+  AID: 'aid',
   WI: 'wi',
   VSCALE: 'vscale',
   YDS: 'yds',

src/data/aid.csv

@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+Score,Aid
+0,A0
+1,A0
+2,A0
+3,A0
+4,A1
+5,A1
+6,A1
+7,A1
+8,A2
+9,A2
+10,A2
+11,A2
+12,A2+
+13,A2+
+14,A2+
+15,A2+
+16,A3
+17,A3
+18,A3
+19,A3
+20,A3+
+21,A3+
+22,A3+
+23,A3+
+24,A4
+25,A4
+26,A4
+27,A4
+28,A4+
+29,A4+
+30,A4+
+31,A4+
+32,A5
+33,A5
+34,A5
+35,A5

src/data/aid.json

@@ -0,0 +1 @@
+[{"score":0,"aid":"A0"},{"score":1,"aid":"A0"},{"score":2,"aid":"A0"},{"score":3,"aid":"A0"},{"score":4,"aid":"A1"},{"score":5,"aid":"A1"},{"score":6,"aid":"A1"},{"score":7,"aid":"A1"},{"score":8,"aid":"A2"},{"score":9,"aid":"A2"},{"score":10,"aid":"A2"},{"score":11,"aid":"A2"},{"score":12,"aid":"A2+"},{"score":13,"aid":"A2+"},{"score":14,"aid":"A2+"},{"score":15,"aid":"A2+"},{"score":16,"aid":"A3"},{"score":17,"aid":"A3"},{"score":18,"aid":"A3"},{"score":19,"aid":"A3"},{"score":20,"aid":"A3+"},{"score":21,"aid":"A3+"},{"score":22,"aid":"A3+"},{"score":23,"aid":"A3+"},{"score":24,"aid":"A4"},{"score":25,"aid":"A4"},{"score":26,"aid":"A4"},{"score":27,"aid":"A4"},{"score":28,"aid":"A4+"},{"score":29,"aid":"A4+"},{"score":30,"aid":"A4+"},{"score":31,"aid":"A4+"},{"score":32,"aid":"A5"},{"score":33,"aid":"A5"},{"score":34,"aid":"A5"},{"score":35,"aid":"A5"}]

src/data/csvtojson.ts

@@ -3,7 +3,7 @@
 
 import csv from 'csv-parser'
 import * as fs from 'fs'
-import { Boulder, Route, IceGrade } from '../scales'
+import { AidGrade, Boulder, Route, IceGrade } from '../scales'
 import path from 'path'
 
 const boulderGrades: Boulder[] = []
@@ -69,3 +69,20 @@ fs.createReadStream(path.join(process.cwd(), 'src/data/ice.csv'))
     const data = JSON.stringify(iceGrades)
     fs.writeFileSync(`${writeDir}/ice.json`, data)
   })
+
+const aidGrades: AidGrade[] = []
+fs.createReadStream(path.join(process.cwd(), 'src/data/aid.csv'))
+  .pipe(csv())
+  .on('data', (data) => {
+    if (data.Aid === '' && data.Aid === '') {
+      return
+    }
+    aidGrades.push({
+      score: parseInt(data.Score, 10),
+      aid: data.Aid
+    })
+  })
+  .on('end', () => {
+    const data = JSON.stringify(aidGrades)
+    fs.writeFileSync(`${writeDir}/aid.json`, data)
+  })

src/index.ts

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ import {
   convertGrade
 } from './GradeParser'
 import { GradeBands, GradeBandTypes } from './GradeBands'
-import { AI, Ewbank, Font, French, Saxon, UIAA, VScale, WI, YosemiteDecimal } from './scales'
+import { Aid, AI, Ewbank, Font, French, Saxon, UIAA, VScale, WI, YosemiteDecimal } from './scales'
 
 // Free Climbing Grades
 // YDS
@@ -263,6 +263,7 @@ export {
 
 export {
   AI,
+  Aid,
   Ewbank,
   Font,
   French,

src/scales/__tests__/ai.ts

@@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ describe('AI', () => {
       expect(score).toEqual(-1)
     })
 
-    test('not aid scale', () => {
+    test('not AI scale', () => {
       const score = AI.getScore('v11')
       expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: v11 for grade scale AI')
       expect(score).toEqual(-1)

src/scales/__tests__/aid.ts

@@ -0,0 +1,127 @@
+import { Aid } from '../../scales'
+
+describe('Aid', () => {
+  describe('Get Score', () => {
+    describe('valid grade formats', () => {
+      jest.spyOn(console, 'warn').mockImplementation()
+      beforeEach(() => {
+        jest.clearAllMocks()
+      })
+
+      test('basic grade A', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A0')
+        expect(console.warn).not.toHaveBeenCalled()
+        expect(score).not.toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('basic grade C', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('C0')
+        expect(console.warn).not.toHaveBeenCalled()
+        expect(score).not.toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('valid + modifier', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A3+')
+        expect(console.warn).not.toHaveBeenCalled()
+        expect(score).not.toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test.failing('mandatory free', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('5.9 A0')
+        expect(console.warn).not.toHaveBeenCalled()
+        expect(score).not.toEqual(-1)
+      })
+    })
+
+    describe('invalid grade formats', () => {
+      jest.spyOn(console, 'warn').mockImplementation()
+      beforeEach(() => {
+        jest.clearAllMocks()
+      })
+
+      test('A6 out of range', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A6')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: A6 for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('invalid minus modifier', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A3-')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: A3- for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('invalid plus modifier', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A5+')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: A5+ for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('plain YDS grade', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('5.9')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: 5.9 for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('slash grade', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('A0/A1')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: A0/A1 for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+
+      test('not aid scale', () => {
+        const score = Aid.getScore('v11')
+        expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: v11 for grade scale Aid')
+        expect(score).toEqual(-1)
+      })
+    })
+
+    describe('correct relative scores', () => {
+      test('C0 = A0', () => {
+        const aGrade = Aid.getScore('A0')
+        const cGrade = Aid.getScore('C0')
+        expect(cGrade).toEqual(aGrade)
+      })
+
+      test('A3+ > A1', () => {
+        const lowGrade = Aid.getScore('A1')
+        const highGrade = Aid.getScore('A3+')
+        expect(highGrade[0]).toBeGreaterThan(lowGrade[1])
+      })
+
+      test('A4 > A3+', () => {
+        const lowGrade = Aid.getScore('A3+')
+        const highGrade = Aid.getScore('A4')
+        expect(highGrade[0]).toBeGreaterThan(lowGrade[1])
+      })
+
+      test('C4 > C3+', () => {
+        const lowGrade = Aid.getScore('A3+')
+        const highGrade = Aid.getScore('A4')
+        expect(highGrade[0]).toBeGreaterThan(lowGrade[1])
+      })
+
+      test('C4 > A3+', () => {
+        const lowGrade = Aid.getScore('A3+')
+        const highGrade = Aid.getScore('A4')
+        expect(highGrade[0]).toBeGreaterThan(lowGrade[1])
+      })
+
+      test('C5 = A5', () => {
+        const aGrade = Aid.getScore('A5')
+        const cGrade = Aid.getScore('C5')
+        expect(cGrade).toEqual(aGrade)
+      })
+    })
+  })
+
+  describe('Get Grade', () => {
+    test('bottom of range', () => {
+      expect(Aid.getGrade(0)).toBe('A0')
+    })
+
+    test('top of range', () => {
+      expect(Aid.getGrade(Infinity)).toBe('A5')
+    })
+  })
+})

src/scales/__tests__/wi.ts

@@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ describe('WI', () => {
       expect(score).toEqual(-1)
     })
 
-    test('not aid scale', () => {
+    test('not WI scale', () => {
       const score = WI.getScore('v11')
       expect(console.warn).toHaveBeenCalledWith('Unexpected grade format: v11 for grade scale WI')
       expect(score).toEqual(-1)

src/scales/aid.ts

@@ -0,0 +1,61 @@
+import GradeScale, { findScoreRange, getAvgScore, GradeScales, Tuple } from '../GradeScale'
+import aid_table from '../data/aid.json'
+import { AidGrade } from '.'
+import { GradeBandTypes, routeScoreToBand } from '../GradeBands'
+
+// Supports [AC]0 -> [AC]5, with + grades on [AC]2 -> [AC]4 and no slash grades
+// https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)#Clean_scale
+const aidGradeRegex = /^([AC])([0-5]|[2-4]\+)$/i
+const isAid = (grade: string): RegExpMatchArray | null => grade.match(aidGradeRegex)
+
+const AidScale: GradeScale = {
+  displayName: 'Aid Grade',
+  name: GradeScales.AID,
+  offset: 1000,
+  allowableConversionType: [],
+  isType: (grade: string): boolean => {
+    if (isAid(grade) === null) {
+      return false
+    }
+    return true
+  },
+  getScore: (grade: string): number | Tuple => {
+    return getScore(grade)
+  },
+  getGrade: (score: number | Tuple): string => {
+    const validateScore = (score: number): number => {
+      const validScore = Number.isInteger(score) ? score : Math.ceil(score)
+      return Math.min(Math.max(0, validScore), aid_table.length - 1)
+    }
+
+    if (typeof score === 'number') {
+      return aid_table[validateScore(score)].aid
+    }
+
+    const low: string = aid_table[validateScore(score[0])].aid
+    const high: string = aid_table[validateScore(score[1])].aid
+    if (low === high) return low
+    return `${low}/${high}`
+  },
+  getGradeBand: (grade: string): GradeBandTypes => {
+    const score = getScore(grade)
+    return routeScoreToBand(getAvgScore(score))
+  }
+}
+
+const getScore = (grade: string): number | Tuple => {
+  const parse = isAid(grade)
+  if (parse == null) {
+    console.warn(`Unexpected grade format: ${grade} for grade scale Aid`)
+    return -1
+  }
+  const [wholeMatch, AorC, gradeNum] = parse // eslint-disable-line @typescript-eslint/no-unused-vars
+
+  const score = findScoreRange((r: AidGrade) => {
+    return r.aid === ('A' + gradeNum)
+  }, aid_table)
+
+  return score
+}
+
+export default AidScale

src/scales/index.ts

@@ -6,10 +6,11 @@ import French from './french'
 import Ewbank from './ewbank'
 import Saxon from './saxon'
 import AI from './ai'
+import Aid from './aid'
 import WI from './wi'
 import UIAA from './uiaa'
 import GradeScale, { GradeScales } from '../GradeScale'
-export { VScale, Font, YosemiteDecimal, French, Saxon, UIAA, Ewbank, AI, WI }
+export { VScale, Font, YosemiteDecimal, French, Saxon, UIAA, Ewbank, AI, WI, Aid }
 
 export interface Boulder {
   score: number
@@ -34,6 +35,11 @@ export interface IceGrade {
   wi: string
 }
 
+export interface AidGrade {
+  score: number
+  aid: string
+}
+
 export const scales: Record<
   typeof GradeScales[keyof typeof GradeScales],
 GradeScale | null
@@ -46,5 +52,6 @@ GradeScale | null
   [GradeScales.EWBANK]: Ewbank,
   [GradeScales.SAXON]: Saxon,
   [GradeScales.AI]: AI,
-  [GradeScales.WI]: WI
+  [GradeScales.WI]: WI,
+  [GradeScales.AID]: Aid
 }