MX5 guides - images added

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/11-Miata-MX5-Quick-Start.md → docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/11-Miata-MX5-Quick-Start.md

@@ -70,7 +70,7 @@ Using the MAP line combined with an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, the BMM
 
 ## Additional Steps for NA6 Vehicles
 
-The NA6 1.6L vehicles which use an AFM instead of a MAF require a few additional modifications to run with a BMM ECU. A manual NA6 do not have a variable throttle position sensor (TPS) like the automatic NA6, later model NAs and all NBs. An NA6 also needs an external intake air temperature (IAT) sensor wired in as the AFM which has one inside is typically removed. They also require a jumper for the ECU to control the fuel pump which was previously the job of the air flow meter.
+The NA6 1.6L vehicles which use an AFM instead of a MAF require a few additional modifications to run with a BMM ECU. A manual NA6 do not have a variable throttle position sensor (TPS) like the automatic NA6, later model NAs and all NBs. An NA6 also needs an external intake air temperature (IAT) sensor wired in as the AFM which has one inside is typically removed. They also require a jumper for the ECU to control the fuel pump which was previously the job of the air flow meter. Additionally, it is recommended to ground the sensors to the ECU rather than the chassis as detailed in the [NA6 ECU Grounding Guide](docs\11-Vehicle-Specific\Mazda-MX5-Miata\NA6-Grounding.md). 
 
 The first step is to disconnect the factory TPS sensor. **This is very important or it will cause a short circuit later.**. The TPS sensor location is shown in the image below.
 
@@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ In the final dialog box, select the default gauge layout (you can change this la
 
 ### Additional Tuner Studio Steps for an External Wideband Controller
 
-To set up the external wideband controller there are several additional steps in Tuner Studio. First, your display units should be set to AFR for this as already stated. If you forgot to do this earlier, press _CTRL + P_ to open the vehicle properties. Now, open the _Aux Sensors_ dialog under _Sensors_ and the _Full Pinout 3/3_ dialog under _Controllers_. As per the diagram below, set the _AFR ADC Input_ and _ADC Input_ to the pin corresponding with _O2S_ (pin 2C for the example). for the values in the _Aux Linear Sensor #1_ box you need to reference the manual of your wideband controller for what voltages correspond to its AFR outputs. In the example below, 0V corresponds to an AFR of 10.0 and 4.99V corresponds to an AFR of 19.98. Once these are set, click _Burn_.
+To set up the external wideband controller there are several additional steps in Tuner Studio. First, your display units should be set to AFR for this as already stated. If you forgot to do this earlier, press _CTRL + P_ to open the vehicle properties. Now, open the _Aux Sensors_ dialog under _Sensors_ and the _Full Pinout 3/3_ dialog under _Controllers_. As per the diagram below, set the _AFR ADC Input_ and _ADC Input_ to the pin corresponding with _O2S_ (pin 2C for the example). for the values in the _Aux Linear Sensor #1_ box you need to reference the manual of your wideband controller for what voltages correspond to its AFR outputs. In the example below, 0V corresponds to an AFR of 10.0 and 4.99V corresponds to an AFR of 19.98. Once these are set, click _Burn_. If TS does not exactly correspond to the readings on your wideband, you can adjust with the correction value.
 
 ![image](Miata-MX5-Quick-Start-Images/extwideband.png)
 

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/Miata-36T-Trigger.md → docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/Miata-36T-Trigger.md

@@ -6,6 +6,8 @@ For Miatas, there are a range of upgraded trigger wheels available, most with 35
 
 The trigger wheel recommended for BMM ECUs is the 1999-2001 Mazda Protege 36-1 Trigger Wheel (part # ZM0111408). This trigger wheel is compatible with the stock crankshaft pulley and a Fluiddampr crankshaft pulley. If using an ATI damper, you must purchase a compatible trigger wheel.
 
+![image](36T-trigger\trig1.jpg)
+
 ## Installation
 
 Before completing this installation it is recommended to have the car running on a BMM ECU with the stock trigger wheel. This way, only a few parameters in the tune need to be changed to get the car working with this part.
@@ -16,25 +18,31 @@ Ensure the engine is off and disconnect the battery for safety.
 
 ### Remove Engine Belts
 
-Remove the engine belts obstructing access to the crankshaft pulley. Typically, there are two belts: the accessory belt which drives the power steering and A/C and the alternator belt which also drives the water pump. The belt tensioners are respectively located on the power steering pump (top right on the engine from the front) and the alternater (bottom left). With the belts removed, you should have clear access to the crankshaft pulley.
+Remove the engine belts obstructing access to the crankshaft pulley. Typically, there are two belts: the accessory belt which drives the power steering and A/C and the alternator belt which also drives the water pump. The belt tensioners are respectively located on the power steering pump (top right on the engine from the front) and the alternator (bottom left). With the belts removed, you should have clear access to the crankshaft pulley.
 
 ### Rotate Engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
 
-Using a 21mm socket on the bolt in the centre of the crank pully, rotate the engine clockwise until the marks on the crank pulley line up with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.
+Using a 21mm socket on the bolt in the centre of the crank pulley, rotate the engine clockwise until the marks on the crank pulley line up with the timing marks on the timing belt cover.
+
+![image](36T-trigger/timing_marks_480x480.webp)
 
 ### Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
 
-Remove the crankshaft pulley by undoing the four 10mm bolts on the front. The large centre bolt doesn't need to be removed if using the stock or a Fluiddampr pulley. An ATI damper will require removal of the cranshaft bolt to install so consult their installation manual if required. Behind the pulley should be the OEM trigger wheel. Go ahead and remove it, put it in the bin or use it as a beer coaster.
+Remove the crankshaft pulley by undoing the four 10mm bolts on the front. The large centre bolt doesn't need to be removed if using the stock or a Fluiddampr pulley. An ATI damper will require removal of the crankshaft bolt to install so consult their installation manual if required. Behind the pulley should be the OEM trigger wheel. Go ahead and remove it, put it in the bin or use it as a beer coaster.
 
 ### Install the New Trigger Wheel
 
-The new trigger wheel can go on to the engine in two orientations, correctly and backwards. To radially allign the trigger wheel, there is a dowel pin on the crank which slots into a hole in the trigger wheel. At TDC, the dowel pin should be vertical or at the 12 o'clock position. The correct orientation is to put the trigger wheel on, as per the diagrams below, with the centre recessed part of the trigger pointing towards the crank, the white dot facing outwards and the missing tooth at approximately the 7 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC and the dowel pin is vertical. The trigger wheel is the wrong way around if the teeth are further fowards of the engine than the centre reccess, the white dot is facing towards the engine, or the missing tooth is at the 5 o'clock position at engine TDC.
+The new trigger wheel can go on to the engine in two orientations, correctly and backwards. To radially align the trigger wheel, there is a dowel pin on the crank which slots into a hole in the trigger wheel. At TDC, the dowel pin should be vertical or at the 12 o'clock position. The correct orientation is to put the trigger wheel on, as per the diagrams below, with the centre recessed part of the trigger pointing towards the crank, the white dot facing outwards and the missing tooth at approximately the 7 o'clock position when the engine is at TDC and the dowel pin is vertical. The trigger wheel is the wrong way around if the teeth are further forwards of the engine than the centre recces, the white dot is facing towards the engine, or the missing tooth is at the 5 o'clock position at engine TDC.
+
+![image](36T-trigger/trig4.png)
 
-If installing an ATI damper and trigger wheel or a Fluiddampr, consult the manual as the installation has several additional steps which include bolting the trigger wheel to the aftermarket crankshaft pulley damper. In the case of a Fluiddampr, the orientation of the Mazda 323 trigger wheel will be identical to installaton onto a stock pulley.
+![image](36T-trigger/trig5.png)
+
+If installing an ATI damper and trigger wheel or a Fluiddampr, consult the manual as the installation has several additional steps which include bolting the trigger wheel to the aftermarket crankshaft pulley damper. In the case of a Fluiddampr, the orientation of the Mazda 323 trigger wheel will be identical to installation onto a stock pulley.
 
 ### Re-Install Crank Pulley and Adjust Crank Sensor
 
-Re-install the crank pulley and the four 10mm bolts (109-151 inch/lbs 13-17 Nm). Check the clearance betweek the crank sensor and the tip of a tooth on the timing wheel, there should be a 0.5-1.5 mm or 0.020-0.059 inch gap between the tooth and the sensor. If you later come up with trigger errors, this gap may need to be reduced. To reduce the gap, loosen the 10mm bolt holding the crank sensor and wiggle it to the desired position.
+Re-install the crank pulley and the four 10mm bolts (109-151 inch/lbs 13-17 Nm). Check the clearance between the crank sensor and the tip of a tooth on the timing wheel, there should be a 0.5-1.5 mm or 0.020-0.059 inch gap between the tooth and the sensor. If you later come up with trigger errors, this gap may need to be reduced. To reduce the gap, loosen the 10mm bolt holding the crank sensor and wiggle it to the desired position.
 
 ### Re-Install Belts and Connect Battery
 
@@ -44,8 +52,10 @@ Re-install the accessory and alternator belts checking they are suitably tight.
 
 In the "Trigger" menu under the Base Engine tab, change the trigger type to 36/1 and the trigger angle advance to 75 degrees.
 
-If using a 36-2 trigger wheel instead, the first setting would be 36/2 and the advance will likely be different so check with the manufacutrer. In the case of a 36-2T trigger wheel for an ATI damper, the advance angle should be around 148 degrees.
+If using a 36-2 trigger wheel instead, the first setting would be 36/2 and the advance will likely be different so check with the manufacturer. In the case of a 36-2T trigger wheel for an ATI damper, the advance angle should be around 148 degrees.
+
+These settings will likely get the car started with the Mazda 323 timing wheel however the trigger angle advance may need to be iterated to perfectly match the timing on your car. To check or set the base timing, set the timing to fixed in TunerStudio and use a timing light on the crank to measure the timing. If the timing is not 10 degrees BTDC, iterate the trigger angle advance in TS until it is spot on. This is covered in "Set Base Timing" within the [Miata Quick Start Guide](docs\11-Vehicle-Specific\Mazda-MX5-Miata\11-Miata-MX5-Quick-Start.md).
 
-These settings will likely get the car started with the Mazda 323 timing wheel however the trigger angle advance may need to be iterated to perfectly match the timing on your car. To check or set the base timing, set the timing to fixed in TunerStudio and use a timing light on the crank to measure the timing. If the timing is not 10 degrees BTDC, iterate the trigger angle advance in TS until it is spot on. This is covered in "Set Base Timing" within the Miata Quick Start Guide.
+![image](36T-trigger/trig6.png)
 
-Now after ensuring your timing is reverted back to dynamic in TS, the installation should now be complete!
+Now after ensuring your timing is reverted back to dynamic in TS, the installation should now be complete!

docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion.md → docs/11-Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion.md

@@ -35,19 +35,29 @@ For the other NA and NB Miatas utilizing a coil pack on the back of the valve co
 
 #### NA6 (1.6L)
 
+![image](<COP/COP wiring NA6.drawio.png>)
+
 #### NA8 94-95 (1.8L)
 
+![image](<COP/COP wiring NA8.drawio.png>)
+
 #### NA8 95+ /NB1 (1.8L)
 
-## Toyota Coil Pinout
+![image](<COP/COP wiring NB1.drawio.png>)
+
+### Toyota Coil Pinout
 
 From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, tachometer signal, and 12V. For later NA8 and NB1 Miatas, the tachometer signal does not need to be wired up.
 
-## R8 Coil Pinout
+![image](COP/Toyota_COP.drawio_480x480.webp)
+
+### R8 Coil Pinout
 
 From left to right on the coil is the ground, ECU signal, ground, and 12V. The two grounds can be connected together. Note that the R8 coils have no tachometer signal meaning that on NA6 and early NA8 cars, the tachometer will need to get its signal from the ECU. Later NA8s and NB1s do not have this issue.
 
-## COP Harness
+![image](COP/R8_COP.drawio_480x480.webp)
+
+### COP Harness
 
 To make the neatest harness, cut the wires to length with the coils installed in the car in their desired orientations. Leave a small amount of excess so there is no tension on the wiring harness and room in case a wire needs to be re-stripped. Make sure to cover each exposed solder joint with electrical tape or heat shrink then go over the entire harness with tape to protect it. It is recommended to check your harness wiring several times for shorts or mistakes before powering on the car.
 
@@ -58,3 +68,5 @@ For both coils, there are a range of third-party suppliers selling mounting brac
 ## ECU Dwell Time Setup
 
 The dwell times need to be modified in TunerStudio before starting the car with the new COPs. Recommended safe dwell settings are shown below for both Toyota and R8 COPs. Note that dwell times can vary significantly between different ignition coils and it is recommended to do some additional research on your specific coil. The longer the dwell time, the longer the coil charges for and the stronger the spark. Too little dwell will result in a weak spark and too much dwell can draw an excessive amount of current, possibly melting the coil.
+
+![image](COP/Dwell.png)