Lodestone MOUSE
This is a modded FMOUSE that produces your audio as a magnetic field over the two mouse buttons. This way you can get two-channel haptic feedback while using it. It connects over Bluetooth and routes your audio through two inductors right beneath your fingertips. This feedback is actively amplified for significantly stronger feedback.
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Prolonged use at max volume can heat up and possibly damage the inductors and their plastic brackets. Use reasonably or use the internal "volume" adjustment.
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Do NOT use the internal micro-USB port. Charge normaly through the mouse's USB-c port.
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To adjust max "volume" remove the magnetic lid and use the black scoll-wheel on the bottom left of the Lodestone logo.
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For information about the mouse itself and how to use it look up FMOUSE.
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For palm magnet stimulation the inductors can be installed on the back screws instead. Custom brackets might be needed. Look through Lodestone-biomagnet-tools/MOUSE /Older prototypes [Do not use]
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Dimensions: 28 * 13 * 8 mm
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Outputs: stereo audio (left and right)
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Amplified: Yes 2 * 5 watts
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Max "volume" adjustment for comfort and safety
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Average output strength: --- mT
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All features of the original FMOUSE. Including: RGB light with multiple modes, silent buttons, desktop button, DPI settings, 3 connections at once, magnetic lid, fully transparent case, multiple colors.
The mouse can switch seamlessly between 3 connections: 2.4GHz USB A dongle and 2 Bluetooth connections (no dongle). The haptic feedback connects over audio Bluetooth separately. Compatible with any PC and mobile device.
TBD.
- An FMOUSE | Source
- A small Bluetooth audio amplifier PAM8406 | Source example
- 2* 0510 axial inductor: 1 mH | 4-6 measured Ohms | Source example
- Thin wires, 0.28mm enameled copper wires for example
- Screwdriver
- Soldering iron
- 3D printer
- Start by printing one of each STLs found in Lodestone-biomagnet-tools/MOUSE /3D Prints so they are ready when needed. Some supports are needed and since the parts are tiny you should use the finest print quality you have.
- Now let's prepare the Bluetooth module. We will start by removing the jack audio port. For that lift-off the visible contact with a needle. Break it off by bending it.
- Now clamp the PCB down. Stick a tool inside the connector and use it to apply a gentle force upwards. As you pull on it keep melting the 4 pads in the back (green, blue, red, yellow) one by one over and over again. Ignore the two front ones. Slowly but surely the connector will lift up front to back. Be very careful not to force it or you will rip the pads off the PCB (yellow is very weak).
- The module won't work anymore, to fix it we need to short the following pads: red-yellow and blue-green. Ideally do that as shown in the picture below but if you ripped some pads off you can still solder onto the alternative points of the same color in the picture above.
- Using a small hand file, a drill, or a dremel, file down the rectangular groove under the jack port into a nice 6mm diameter semi-circle. No functional traces run through that space so be gentle and everything should be fine. Make sure the PCB fits nicely in the 3D printed part.
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Let's move on to the mouse. Disassemble the mouse completely. This is made easy thanks to the magnetic cover and standard screws. Unplug the battery. Discard the rectangular battery cover and the little magnet that's under it, we won't need these.
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On the underside of the PCB solder wires to the pads as in the picture below. One goes to the negative pin of the battery connector and the other to the left pad of the switch. This will be the power for our little Bluetooth module.
- These power wires will run around the PCB and back on top of it. Put the PCB back in place and the plastic part that has the cover magnets. Now cut those power wires to the appropriate length and solder them to the module's POWER + and - on the module's top side. The one coming from the switch is the positive.
- Put the battery back in place. On top of it, fold over the Bluetooth module upside-down with the speaker and power through holes towards the front of the mouse.
- Prepare the inductors by bending and cutting the leads as short as possible. Solder a ~10cm wire to each end. Install them in the front using the little 3D-printed brackets and route the wires back towards the Bluetooth module. Space is tight under the buttons so make sure to cut the leads as short as possible and test-fit constantly to see if the buttons are obstructed. Insulate the scroll wheel potentiometer's outer metal part from the right inductor lead with a small piece of tape.
- Cut the inductor wires and solder them to the module's speaker outputs on the bottom side which should now be facing up. (Careful! With the board upside-down left and right are reversed!).
- Make sure your solder spots don't stick out too much and place the 3D-printed cover over the Bluetooth module. The bottom screw slot should fit snuggly into the semi-circle we filed in the module. Screw it down.
- Assemble the mouse.
You're done 🎉 Now connect both the mouse and the audio module and try it!
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What do I get with my purchase? The modded FMOUSE in its original packaging with its original instructions and accessories if any.
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How strong is it? The Bluetooth module inside has "5-watt" amplification, pushing the inductors to their very limit.
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Does it make a sound? A little bit at full volume. Everything is done to minimize that but those inductors do shake a lot and end up turning anything into a speaker if you let them.
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Does it heat up? Prolonged use at max volume can heat up and possibly damage the inductors and their plastic brackets. Use reasonably or use the internal "volume" adjustment.
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Should I make it myself? This one takes a little bit of work and skill so don't start your DIY career with this. You can find all the parts online.