It should not be possible to turn off country rules

[graue]

Currently, as in upstream GraphHopper (at the time we forked, anyway), country rules are disabled by default, but our Bay Area config in this repo turns them on.

To interpret cycleway:left and cycleway:right tags, the router needs to know the driving side, which it gets only from country rules. Therefore, correct operation requires country rules and they should not be disabled by default, nor should the feature to disable them exist. Ideally we would merge this change into upstream (which is also currently failing to handle cycleway:left and cycleway:right at all).